CRUISE REPORT - BL011 and BL012 - FLYING TO ROME - CRUISING TO VENICE
THEN RETURNING TO UK BY SEA
ON THE INAUGURAL SEASON OF THE BALMORAL (FRED OLSEN) - June 2nd > 22nd 2008
It's 6pm Sunday June 22nd and I am safely home. It was a
wonderful holiday on a fine ship with superb food and service and it was
very social. We travelled 4,600 nautical miles. Below I have written a
resume of the
holiday.
Cheers
John

On June 2nd I took the [free] bus to Cam and walked the half mile to the
station. The 11am train to Temple Meads linked directly to the 11.40am
'Airport Express' coach and I was at the airport at noon. A one hour queue
to check in baggage at lunchtime and the flight took off at 3.45pm.
One foreign member of airport staff had asked me the question 'Any
leekwids?'
which I couldn't fathom at all.
The Titan Airways 757 was excellent with newspapers, flannel washes, high
tea with a
complimentary bottle of wine, silver service - not plastic knives. I had a
window seat. It was cloudy over Europe but saw some snow on the Alps. Good
high view of Rome coming in. Baggage handlers strike meant bags had to be
carried or wheeled to the coach. Two Bristol ladies in their 70's were
descending the aircraft steps backwards, with hand baggage and sticks. I
carried their luggage. This way I met a group of 6 - one man, his wife and
four friends. They were most grateful for my help and we did things
together throughout the 20 day holiday. By the end of the holiday I was on
Christian name terms with about 20 people on the ship including friendly
Australians
and New Zealanders. The one hour coach ride from Fumacino airport to the
ship was one hour in the dusk and dark. I talked to a lady with a big house
in Bishops Cleeve. We boarded the magnificent Balmoral at 8.30 and
straightaway had a turkey and caramel sweet dinner in the restaurant. I
changed my arrangements to 6.30 First sitting for the entire trip. That
way you could see the first show at 8.45. The doors of the restaurant
opened to reveal a splendid dining room and 40 or so white-uniformed happy
Phillipino and Thai staff to serve us - a couple of waiters dedicated to
our table to the whole time. The food throughout the entire holiday was
SUPERB. Absolutely delicious and so much variety to choose from the menu.

TUESDAY The Manchester flight was delayed by technical probs with an
aircraft and we did not leave 'Rome' til 2.45 am. My cabin was similar to
the one on the Island Star but the TV was better with Google Earth ship
location, bridge cam and BBC World News on a LCD digital TV. One 'swipe
card' allowed access on and off the ship, opened the cabin door and
switched on the light. I kept it in my camera case or inside my Tilley hat.
The latter - a gift from Mary - was widely admired and very useful indeed.
The 'new' ship was on its inaugural season. The interior decor of the
public rooms was fabulous.
We had the usual Emergency Drill with lifebelts. They announced the Tunis
half-day port of call was cancelled because of 'double booking of berths'
and that we would be visting Sicily for a full day instead. It was sunny
when we arrived in Naples, Italy the first day. After lunch on board we
walked ashore with the Bristol sixsome. Walking was a non-starter with one
lady with an artificial lower leg and another with a stick and stroke
affected
arm. We accepted the offer of a friendly taxi driver
and for 20 pounds each he took us on a magnificent 70 mile round trip to
Sorrento stopping twice for photo stops by the wonderful bougainvillea and
breathtaking coastal scenes; and one for 45 minute for an ice cream and
stroll in Sorrento.
I sat in the front seat of the Fiat taxi/minivan. 'John's the boss' they
said. We passed Vesuvius. I said all we needed was Dean Martin to be along
with us singing. When we were taken near the taxi driver's brother's shop
in Sorrento (yes that old wheeze) the brother came out on to the pavement
and sang the Dean Martin song for 'Johnny' and the group, We bought
fabulous ice creams in a shop that had made a 20-tier cake for the Pope and
also featured photos of an Italian starlet bathing in chocolate ice cream.
Back at the ship it was the Captain's welcome cocktail party with canapes
and sparkling wine - then the formal dinner - everyone including me in dark
or white jackets with bow ties. Our table was round and I had six eating
companions - all interesting and there was much banter and amusement during
the three weeks. We passed Capri at 8.30 and I looked at the pinnacles of
rock passing in the dusk light. Our late departure from Rome had changed
the schedule. There was a very good 'Hollywood' theme singing/dancing show
in the theatre/lounge after dinner. The semi-circular dance floor was
raised by hydraulics to form a stage. A 'loud' American couple behind me
talked across the intro saying 'Mrs Robinson' when the compere was talking
about 'The Graduate' and 'I've seen him already' when the compere mentioned
a guitarist. There were 1350 passengers (of 15 nationalities - but mainly
British); and 540 staff on board - 400 of whom ran the 'hotel' facilities.

WEDNESDAY
Sicily. Sunny. Met my Sicilian lady guide friend (from previous visits)
Donatella on the quay. She greeted
me with open arms and a kiss. I said we were supposed to be in Tunis! I had
said to a couple of Aussies at breakfast that I had been to Sicily already
this year and Clive said 'Does your work bring you down this way?' I joined
a coach drive/tour to beautiful Tindari about 25 miles along the North
coast. Fairly interesting Roman ruins and, as it happened, a great Sicilian
wedding going on in the church. Took pictures of the wedding group. Pure
'Godfather'! After a lemon ice cream at Tindari, back to Messina. Lunch on
ship; then a Messina town walk in the afternoon. Enjoyed a jacuzzi bathe on
board with my Bristol friends, Evening meal was, my choice,
chicken soup; Norwegian salmon; mango-apple tart; coffee. A comedian
entertained in the 'Neptune Lounge' theatre. Met a very nice NZ couple from
Wellington.

THURSDAY
Full English breakfast as usual. Sunny day. 7.15 am arrival in Valletta
Malta - great view from my big window and also on
bridge cam TV screen as we came in. I took a bus from the quay to City
Gate and by 9.15 am was on the open-topped sight-seeing bus touring this
time the Southern half of the island. The southern harbour stop of
Marsaxlock was grand and also the scenery all round the south. We finished
in Sliema and I took a short ferry ride back to Valletta old town which I
explored again. 2.30pm lunch on ship - mackeral, baked potatoes, veg;
cheese and biscuits. Off the ship for a walk on the ramparts and more
photography. Back on the ship for afternoon cake and coffee. Chatted with
the fellow passengers. They had a steel drummer with sound track backing.
He - Hubert Greaves - played my request 'Island in the Sun'. It was
'British Night' with a
red.white, blue theme in the theatre, union jack waving and singalong
followed by a 'nautical' theme show. The NZ contingent in the audience wore
their 'All Blacks' kit. An Aussie couple came along in 'Transport' convict
clothes.

FRIDAY
Clocks forward an hour. A day at sea. Had a swim and jacuzzi bathe on the
top deck pools. Marvellous steel drum music on the aft deck for lunch. A
lady in multi-colour chiffon asked if she could join me for lunch, not
wishing to lunch alone. She said at the end of the meal that I had been a
'wonderful escort' then went off to find her husband. Swam in pool with the
Bristol crowd in the afternoon. Later a passenger said I looked splendid in
that Tilley hat. A fabulous trout dinner then a magician's show. At
dinner, fellow table companion Tony (ex Civil Servant widower with two
houses in Hampshire by the sea and with future wife [Bentley-driviing
London Accountant] and future mother-in-law with him remarked to me ' My
God, you've caught the sun today'). Incidentally I was never sun burnt
unlike some very raw passengers later on the trip.

SATURDAY
Sunrise over Albania, Thunder and lightning and dark clouds over Corfu,
Greece on our arrival at 7.15 am. Went with the six Bristolians in two
taxis to visit the beautiful gardens of the Achilleion Palace (birthplace
of Prince Philip I gather). Lovely wisteria arched walk and views. We then
seemed to be heading back to town without seeing the famous view of Mouse
Island and a church on a quay. I told Spiros, our driver, who leapt out of
the Toyota Avensis to check what had been agreed with the taxi driver ahead
who was carrying the remainder of our party. He ran back to our car and
both turned right up to see the viewpoint. Good job I spotted that. We
walked round the old town after a drink and I walked all the way back to
the ship with a couple of the Bristol ladies. A 'Captain's Talk' explained
how the ship had been cut in half and lenghened last winter. Norwegian
Captain Trond Lippestad was charming and very droll. Spaghetti diiner. The
'Lots of
Latino' show.

SUNDAY
Breakfast arrival at surprisingly attractive Brindisi, Italy. We were the
biggest ship ever in there. I joined a coach trip to see the amazing
conical/round clustered white Trulli houses of Alberobello in Pulia inland
from Bari. We had wine and snacks included in a restaurant. The heavens
opened on the way back to the coach. I leant a lady my hat. She bought a
box of fresh cherries to eat on the 30 mile drive back. Lunch on ship. Then
I walked round the town and caught a small ferry over the harbour to go up
a huge memorial tower/monument to the Navy. Met some passengers from Dorset
over there. Lots of bougainvillea. Good views but no photography allowed as
it overlooked 'Mussolini's Naval base. Good meal that night but missed
beginning of the sailway when the whole turned out to wave us goodbye. Good
subset too but no film in camera at that moment. A terrific lady singer
from Liverpool - Julie A. Scott
gave a big ballad singing show in the theatre that night.

MONDAY - June 9th
At the port of Dubrovnik. Berthed at new port. Took coach tour to see view
from a new cable-stay bridge; the high overview of Dubrovnik; then a 2 hour
stay at Cavtat 12 miles south of Dubrovnik. Saw the mountains of Bosnia
nearby. On the way back, on my suggestion four of us left the bus near
Dubrovnik old town and explored that on foot. Two of the four of us walked
the city walls while me and Marion - a young widow from Kent walked the
two
miles back to the ship pausing to admire the views and oleanders at
pavement seats and talking to German tourists. Unfortunately Marion left a
the end of the first 11 days and I did not get her address, To the ship at
3.30pm. Captain's cocktail party. Sparkling wine and canapes. Five-course
dinner in the restaurant The lights were dimmed and 'Baked Alaska' sweet
was brought in with sparkler fireworks
sparking. Then the crew put on a magnificent show of Balinese, Thai and
Phillipino native dances in colourful costumes - then there was the 'Chef's
Parade' introducing all the high-hatted chefs - fish chef, meat chef,
sweets chef, sauces chef etc - then at 11.30 the 'Gala Buffet' display and
late-night snacking for anyone that could. Amazingly intricate carved and
decorated foodstuffs. Masses of it.

TUESDAY
At Sea. Sunny. Met Aussie Pam from Port Douglas QLD. She
told me the Holiday Inn in Sydney was built along the curved lines I
designed in the sketch scheme for it. It was no longer the Holiday Inn and
remarked ho different my life would be if I had stayed in Australia. Then
came FABULOUS FABULOUS ( and very crowded and busy) VENICE. What an
approach
right up the Giudecca passing St Marks to the cruise ship piers. 1.30 pm
arrival. Lunch on ship then with the Bristol group by shuttle bus to the
top end of the Grand Canal, all down the Grand Canal by vaparetto, a walk
around St Marks then on my suggestion a walk through the back streets to
Rialto to
pick up another vaparetto there .. back to 'Place De La Roma' near our
ship. The Royal Caribbean 'Legend of the Seas' was in. That night a
'Variety Showtime' after dinner. Excellent again.

WEDNESDAY
Moved from Outside Deck 5 cabin to Inside Deck 4 cabin for the second part
of the cruise which I booked while on board at a rate of under 50 pounds a
day all-in for 11 more days on the 'Balmoral'. Took a vaparetto round the
southernb side of Venice to St Marks. Took the lift up the bell tower and
enjoyed the views. Walked along by the Bridge of Sighs. Tony from the table
grabbed me from behind in fun and he and his lady friend showed off the
labels in their own Tilley hats they were wearing and suggested I take a
look inside the ornate Danieli hotel. I then walked on by the Arsenale and
through back alleys wuth great views to the north side of Venice where I
took a vaparetto to the island of Murano. Great glass street sculptures
there. Saw the showrooms and glass blowing workshops, Wrote a post card.
Enjoyed a coffee. Took a vaparetto motor boat back to Venice, Neither time
did anyone ask for a check for a ticket. Back in the city, I walked to the
Rialto and watched the gondoliers with the tourists in the gondolas.
Perfect sunny day. Vaparetto back to the terminal chatting to ladies who
had travelled on the Orient Express to Venice, Earlier, on the vaparetto, I
had chatted to Aussies who had just cycled the riverside Danube cycle track
for 360km to Vienna from Passau. Back on the Balmoral for
swim/jacuzzi/dinner.

THURSDAY
Still at Venice. Walked to Rialto and back studying the scenes on the
amazingly busy Grand Canal. Returned to the ship at 11.15 am. There was a
Sailaway BBQ on the aft deck and a party and dancing to a live band playing
'YMCA', 'Show Me The Way to Amarillo' and 'Sailing'. My extreme disco
dancing was much admired and not 'too' over-the-top! Great scenes
of Venice sailing out. Then Emergency Drill with the new arrivals on this
stage of the cruise. Then a 'solo travellers' get-together. Mainly the
older widows attended. One lady, Joyce Goodwin, had been 740 nights on the
Fred
Olsen cruises since 2004
- usually in a broom-cupboard sized interior single cabin. Formal night
again. Another captain's cocktail party followed by dinner with much
bonhomie and hilarity. (Tony's drinks bill for the cruise was 680 pounds
for him and his ladyfriend and her mother). Then a terrific 'Paris By
Night' show. I was in the front row and the showgirls nearly, literally,
'blew me away' with their can-can dances. Then to cap it all - the backdrop
of the Eiffel Tower lit up and the sang 'The Best of Times is Now'
while wearing very elaborate costumes and feathers. ABSOLUTELY FANTASTIC.

FRIDAY
AT Dubrovnik, Croatia again. Cloudy then sunny. Moored in bay. Tendered to
the old town quay on a Croation vessel.
Choppy water. Chilled fruit drinks and fresh fruit supplied by 'Fred Olsen'
on quayside. Explored town. Then climbed right to the top of the mountain
behind and above Dubrovnik to view ruined shell-damaged cablecar station a
new limestone cross - all a memorial to the 1992 war with Serbs. Met some
passengers up there who offered me a free lift back down to Dubrovnik in
the black Mercedes taxi they had hired. I rode in the front seat.
Soon a tender/lifeboat back to 'Balmoral' at anchor in the bay. Lunch on
ship. Swim. Jacuzzi. Comedy show with another comedian. Late night ABBA
tribute show in another lounge. Midnight buffet and chat with Bristol folk
in 'Palms' cafe.

SATURDAY
At Sea. Sunny. Swim. Jacuzzi. Chat. Dinner. Tony was enjoying my
'scintillating wit'.
I watched the pink sunset over Etna near the Messina
Strait. Great show that night ... 'The Musicals' singing show featuring the
UK guest lady artiste - Julie Scott.

SUNDAY - 15th June
At Palermo, Sicily. Surprisingly good. Very sunny. Palled up with a Mum,
Dad, daughter from Weston, The parents were celebrating their Ruby
Anniversary that day and said they thoroughly enjoyed my company as we
walked to see all the marvellous buildings and fountains - including the
Cathedral - that I identified on the big map I was given on Reception.
After lunch on ship, I visited the Botanical gardens and nearby colourful
public gardens on my own. Lovely harbourside walk back to the ship. Swim,
jacuzzi. Sailaway party with more energetic dancing on the back deck. A
Tropical night theme dinner and show but an hour and a half out of Palermo
the Captain came on the Public address system to sat we had to return to
Sicily because of a medical emergency. It seems a 90 year old solo
traveller (awaiting a pacemaker) had had a heart attack that day withot
realising it. We turned back and met the coastguard boat offshore and
transferred the lady off. Apparently people had also been taken off to
hospital from Venice and Dubrovnik. I hear the lady is OK.

MONDAY
Delayed arrival in Cagliari, Sardinia. Sunny. Late start for 30 mile coach
tour scenic drive along coast to Villasimius, Sardinia. Not much there,
Returned after 45 minutes. Pretty coastal views. Swim and jacuzzi on ship.
'The Wonder of Elvis' show in one of the lounges.

TUESDAY
At Sea. Swimming in pool etc. Turkey dinner. Posed with showgirl Natalie
exitting
restauraunt as did about 100 others - have bought that picture!

WEDNESDAY
Spectacular arrival at Gibraltar. P&O Arcadia as in port. Ambulances on
quay to carry away a suspected appendicitus passenger. Later that day two
others tripped on the paving and had to be hospitalised temporarily. Sunny.
Made a bee-line for the cable car. Went to the top of the Rock. Views of
Morrocco and Spain. Barbary apes all around including riding up the hill
road on the top and wing mirrors of taxi vans. Walked right back down into
town passing the Seige Tunnels, one of which I looked along. Met folk en
route, Went into M&S in Town. Saw HD TV for the first time. Saw a photo
shop which had photos of all the planes and ships that have visited Gib
including a picture of P&O Ventura in there in May. Back on ship another
Sailaway dance party, tea and cakes, later a British theme sing-along. Land
of Hope and Glory etc. A 'Lloyd Webber Musicals' tribute show. Another
late night cellist and singer show, then delicious fish and chips and
tomato sauce meal/snack with ny Bristol friend at midnight to wrap up
'British' night.

THURSDAY
Clocks back one hour. Very clear and sunny. Arrived in Lisbon, Portugal.
Passed under Tagus suspension bridge
(like Golden Gate). Fabulous inaugural greeting for Balmoral. Flag bedecked
tug with water cannon escorts us in blaring his and our horns but amazingly
spinning round in its own length kicking up a wake. Brass band on quay.
Headed out to walk 8 miles or so that day to photograph all the key sites,
the City in the morning and the 'Monument to the Discoveries' and Belem
Tower in the afternoon. Enjoyed a custard tart and orange drink at the cafe
atop the Eiffel Tower elevator structure in the morning. Fantastic
sailaway back out under Tagus bridge in evening. More swimming etc.
Delicious lamb curry dinner. Variety show in theatre.

FRIDAY
Day at Sea.
Watched demonstration by US visiting guest photographer Joe Craig with his
'Soulmarks'
technique of taking monochrome natural portrait photos of people on his
Fujifilm camera wired in to various
umbrella lights. His line is 'The eyes are the windows into the soul and
allow you to connect with people ... and [quote]
being on this ship has been a blessing beyond words'. He also said
'Aussies
are easy to photograph because they are so
happy-go-lucky'. Enjoyed lunch; performing string trio on one of the decks;
swim; jacuzzi; sunny afternoon.
cocktail party; formal dinner;
marvellous crew show of Far Eastern native dancing. Very pretty. With
coloured fans etc.

SATURDAY 21st June
At Sea. Some cloud. No motion - even on Bay of Biscay. A photography
seminar with Joe Craig in theatre. Lots of music and
shows in all the venues. Saw the P&O Aurora steaming past the southern
coast of the Isle of Wight. Farewell shows
piling on the emotion on the emotion with 'Simply the Best', 'Nessan
Dorma', 'Time to Say Goodbye' with the showgirls
in Venetian costumes -- and then Auld Lang sine. Heavens above! - what a
finale!!

SUNDAY
Then today, I had no idea I was getting home having extended the original 9
day cruise into the 20 day version that
the Bristol folk had booked from the start. I did not know it existed.
Anyway up at 5am today to watch the White Cliffs of Dover ... and castle
approach. Saw France behind me. Full English breakfast as usual. Lots of
chat in the lounge before disembarking. British Immigration officials had
been on since Lisbon and checked all passports Friday. Most luggage was
taken to back deck storage Saturday night for caged lift-off by
lorry-cranes this morning. Went off - found the Olsen arranged coach to
Bristo Airport. Found a nearby Fred Olsen stewardess
and free transport to Bristol airport was agreed
(because my original trip would have delivered me back to Bristol airport)
- 11am - 3.30pm today via
M25 and M4 with a comfort stop at Membury
Services. Said goodbye to my Bristol friends. Caught the 6 pound Airport
Link coach back to Bristol rail station. Inquired
and caught the 4.45 'Worcester bound' 5.30 pound train back to Cam/Dursley
- asked someone in the car park for a lift home
and was taken to the door by some kind folk heading for Wotton. Arrived
home at 5.30pm

I had been tempted to stay on for the Baltic cruise commencing tonight but
after considering the full costs and my commitments here I dropped that
idea. Several people did extend on this highly recommended cruise and
no doubt they found it enormously interesting.

Nittty gritty:-
First 9 days of the cruise I have been on cost 1080 pounds
(single supplement included) Last 11 days
cost 533 pounds.
On board spending and trips cost 150. Sundry spending money - 10 films,
drinks etc -
circa 120
A fantastic experience all round