Arrived in Goa on time on 23 December. We got a taxi direct from the airport for the first time - very easy and trouble free. However, we did seem to get the oldest taxi driver who drove all the way to Candolim at 15 miles an hour. He also had very little English and did not seem to know exactly where our hotel was - luckily we did.

We stayed in a private apartment this year at the Highland Beach - what a wonderful experience after years of staying in grotty 2 star hotels, like the Alor Grande. We were tucked at the back with views over the jungle and it was very peaceful,(except for the dawn chorus, but you get those everywhere in the world and it is a lovely way to be woken up).

We hit the beach the next day at our favourite shack, 21 Coconuts (no longer is but that is another story) and settled down to warm sunshine and relaxation and then drinks and dinner at the Annapurna. This was the same for most of our time there - 3 glorious weeks. The day to day norm was only spoilt a couple of times.

First disturbance was the Sunburn Goa dance festival. On the first day the bass was so loud you could feel your teeth rattling and we were driven off the beach. Didn't help that it had been set up directly behind 21 Coconuts. I know I will be considered an old fogey but it truly was too loud - we could even hear it at the Highland Beach. The next day we decided to go shopping in Calungute to get away from the noise. Big mistake - it was so crowded we decided that the noise of the beach would be preferable. Also, the prices they were asking for was ridiculous. 8000 rupees for a copy Omega! The seller proudly shook the watch and assured us it was top notch because it was still working! Then a taxi driver tried to charge me 300 rupees for Calungute to Candolim - he was given 150 rupees (which is what we paid to get there) and told take it or leave it. When we got to the beach that afternoon they had turned the music down quite a bit so it was bearable. Thankfully the festival only lasted 2 days and finished promptly at 10 pm both nights.

Seond, we had to change shacks after the manager of 21 Coconuts (*deleted) tried to keep 1000 rupees of my hard earned money - my husband had given him a bundle of 50 rupee notes as he was short of change and he proceeded to give us a 1000 rupee note for 2000 rupees. On discovering his mistake an hour later, after I had a word with him, he gave me the money back) but we felt let down as we had used the shack for 3 years and considered him a friend. But sometimes it is good to be forced to have a change. We moved next door to the White Horse but this got too crowded in the end - too many sun beds pushed together, and not enough beach space - so we finally settled for Bull Dog for the last couple of days and that it the one we will start with next year. We will also be hiring a scooter so can travel further afield.

The final night we had dinner with friends at East Meets West - first time we had been there and it was a lovely evening. Not that much more expensive and the food was lovely, as was the service with proper napkins and a live band. We will definitely head there next year for a couple of nights out.

Other "interesting" events: boy selling local papers on the beach demanded 100 rupees for the local 3 rupee paper - needless to say he did not get it. We also witnessed a very old disabled lady on the beach, who was begging, being kicked by the boy of a local man who does massages. Truly disgusting behaviour - even if you choose not to give to the beggars I thought this treatment was objectionable. I personally gave her 20 rupees and you would have thought I had helped her win the lottery, she was so grateful.

Beach sellers were out in force although most know me now so we are not bothered very much. I have a favourite lady for doing a manicure so I only use her but all the female sellers have now latched on to this. None of them are very good - I tend to do my own nails with my favourite nail varnish and just ask my lady to create a sparkly design with the nail jewellery.

The beach did not look particularly quiet to me - especially the week following the New Year and most shacks had good custom. Most of the restaurants looked busy too (with one or two exceptions). The Inferno was very popular and we had one meal there which was, in our opinion, very second rate, so we went back to the Annapurna.

The return flight was uneventful except for one chap who got arrested on the plane on arrival at Gatwick for smoking in the toilet.

I cannot wait for my return visit this December, and the following year we move out there for 6 months - not that I am wishing my life away.

Fiona - I am not clever enough to paste a link in the trip report section and trust you will do this for me.

Candybabe