Here's a day by day account of my thoughts/observations and opinions over the last week of staying in North Goa.
After spending a relaxing 2 weeks in peaceful Benaulim in the South, arrived in North Goa last Saturday (15th).
Saturday 15th Benaulim to Baga
On the taxi journey through Baga/Calangute and across the newish bridge I hardly recognised the area from 31/2 years ago.... much development both in resorts, restaurants and shops.
Arrived at Royal Goan Beach Club which is undergoing development work so half the rooms are 'refurbished'. Overall the place seemed tired although the room has been re-decorated. Unfortunately this is no longer 4 star accomodation.
Got a taxi to Vagator for the afternoon which was quiet and sat on the cliffs to watch the sunset.... fantastic. Rushed back to go to the Ingo market (no longer run by Ingo). Usual great vibe with some fantastic music/dancers from Rajistan and a funk/fusion set with a band featuring Goan guitarist 'Elvis' who played some great Electric Sitar.... followed by a very boring band with a German Sitar player who seemed to think he was Prem Joshua.... not very good. Overall a great night. Was this a sign of great things for the next few days?
Sunday 16th Baga and Calangute
Walked from Baga to Calangute along main road...... oh dear!!! When will we see the 'kiss me quick hats'... absolutely no magic left in this area. Walked back up the beach from Calangute to Baga through the hordes of Indian tourists standing around and avoided the abundance of beach beds.... why put out all these beds if there are only 1/3 of them occupied?... beachbed restrictions ... not. Couldn't get away quick enough.... so jam packed but not a great many foreigners. This seemed like Blackpool to me. Very disappointed indeed.
Went to the Myonna Bar at Baga Creek to hear music from Dr Allen who played a few numbers well, then it was over to the guests. Absolutely turgid.... amateur English musicians who couldn't get their guitars in tune and out of tune vocals. Had to eat overpriced average set menu to pay for the poor music. Left 3/4 way through as I couldn't listen to any more.
All in all it wasn't a pleasurable day.
Monday 17th Ashvem Morjim
Got taxi to Ashvem and walked down the coast to Morjim (turtle beach). A lot of shack/hut building... more than ever but not a lot of people here. Will all these huts get filled this season? Still very quiet... I still like this area very much.
Tuesday 18th Anjuna
Walked over the hill to Anjuna, quietish but really chilled out. seems a lot less 'trancey' and full on, was able to relax here no problem. Don't be put of by the media bad press, yes you will get asked if you want drugs.... just say no! (This also happens in Baga).
In the evening went to All Spice at Arpora for food. First time.... BEST CURRY IN GOA.... I've been all over Goa and these guys have the best curry masala gravy recipe.... period. More expensive than average but.... EXCELLENT.
Wednesday 19th
Spent at Cliffs Shack between Baga Anjuna quiet but good.
Ate that evening in Fish Land at Arpora, new, good and reasonable prices.
Thursday 20th Baga to Candolim
Walked from Baga to Candolim by beach.... shacks, beds, shacks, beds.... sorry but this area is no longer appealing to me, wouldn't have thought Goa could have turned so British. Erosion at Sinqerim very evident, Candolim seemed quiet-ish.
Travelled back to Arpora from Aguada by bus, under 20 RS. There's hardly an area of this street that has not been developed.
Had to revisit All Spice in the evening... YUM YUM.
Friday 21st
Went to Panjim during day then spent evening at Sunset Bar on other side of Baga facing the first shacks on the beach. Sound drifted across the river from bad karaoke from the 2nd shack. Had to drown my sorrows with large gin and tonics.
Summary for week 1 in North Goa
I know I have been critical about Baga/Calangute but IMO it is now the Blackpool of the Indian riviera.... fully of cramped beach beds, dangerous water sports, quiz nights, bad karaoke, TV bars, second rate British entertainers who wouldn't get a gig back home and more... Obviously some people still like this. If it's cheap beer, food and sunburn it's all here... you wouldn't know you were in Goa. To add to my disgust of the area I also got asked by a sleazy shack owner if I wanted to spend time with a young Indian girl for a few hours.... how sordid. Of course the usual questions if I wanted hash, coke, opium also. It's no wonder all the long timers have almost dissapeared around this area, they have gone to Kerala, Gokarna or South Goa .... this is not the Goa I care for.
Overall there are talks about 'when are the Brits coming'. Spoke to a few property owners (British) who have managed to sell up (the lucky ones) as there appears to be resentment to long-time property owners in Goa. Have found that everyone however is friendly to short term holiday makers..... Goan dual standards?
Will definately be spending my final week North of Baga/Calangute.
Would I go back to Goa? Yes but not to the Calangute, Baga, Candolim strip.
good report Big Neil, warts an-all.
just one question, did Myonnas have entertainment till late, or did they like last year have to stop the music a 10 o'clock.
Nice one
BOB
just one question, did Myonnas have entertainment till late, or did they like last year have to stop the music a 10 o'clock.
Nice one
BOB
that was a good read big neil! can i ask the age-old question,as you've just visited both north and south,is there much difference in prices between the two? i've been told a few times that the south is more expensive to eat and drink. not worried about buying stuff as i've done all that.
thanks
thanks
Just spoken to my in laws who are 3 weeks into their 6 months in Morjim, they confirm it is very quiet with a lot less Russians than usual.
Seems the locals are also now getting worried with many of those who stayed now going to Dubai for the season.
The travel companies may have just shot themselves in the foot, I mean £800
for dormhouse option when last year was kess than half that.
Seems the locals are also now getting worried with many of those who stayed now going to Dubai for the season.
The travel companies may have just shot themselves in the foot, I mean £800
for dormhouse option when last year was kess than half that.
We were down Utordra beach today,and was speaking to a couple of people who stay in the Calangute/Candolim area.They have been going there long term for the past 15 years,but were saying this time will probably be the last as the place is turning into a dump (their words).It's getting expensive,quality is going downhill and at the moment it's quite deserted.Unless something drastic is done Goa has had it's day,if the Goans think it's bad this season they haven't seen anything yet.
John
John
a good report big neil, i think it's what a few of us have been thinking for 3+ years, unfortunately.
it was our first time this year to goa and calangute..we did enjoy it, and are going back again this jan,although i think it wil be the last time for a couple of years.. 
Our last holiday in the north of Goa was in February 2005 (which was our 6th stay there), and decided that we really did not want to stay in there again. We used to stay at the Goan Heritage and used that as our base.
From about 2002 we noticed that the area around the hotel and Calangute itself was becoming noisy, dirty and cluttered. Everytime we went on holiday, new hotels had either been finished or were being built.
There were more and more shacks each year, each with many sunbeds and each playing very loud music. Where originally our favourite shack was quiet, over the years it became busier and noisier, which was a good thing for the owner, but not for us.
Perhaps we were imagining it, but there seemed to be more beach sellers. Like everyone else who goes to Goa, we work hard to have our holiday and we like to have a chilled time. The constant interruptions really began to irritate us to the point I became a 'granny grunt' and started snapping at the sellers (I know this isn't a nice thing to do as we all have to make a living). We ended up spending more and more time in the shack to try to avoid them.
We did notice that prices increased slightly but you would expect that, but at that time the prices had not increased by that much. The most disappointing thing we noticed was the quality of food and portion sizes in some of our favourite restaurants had deteriorated.
We really stopped staying in the north because of the noise.
From about 2002 we noticed that the area around the hotel and Calangute itself was becoming noisy, dirty and cluttered. Everytime we went on holiday, new hotels had either been finished or were being built.
There were more and more shacks each year, each with many sunbeds and each playing very loud music. Where originally our favourite shack was quiet, over the years it became busier and noisier, which was a good thing for the owner, but not for us.
Perhaps we were imagining it, but there seemed to be more beach sellers. Like everyone else who goes to Goa, we work hard to have our holiday and we like to have a chilled time. The constant interruptions really began to irritate us to the point I became a 'granny grunt' and started snapping at the sellers (I know this isn't a nice thing to do as we all have to make a living). We ended up spending more and more time in the shack to try to avoid them.
We did notice that prices increased slightly but you would expect that, but at that time the prices had not increased by that much. The most disappointing thing we noticed was the quality of food and portion sizes in some of our favourite restaurants had deteriorated.
We really stopped staying in the north because of the noise.
Great report and was hoping for an update regarding the current state of North Goa.
This March's holiday will be different. For a number of reasons. The main being i'm going with my Girlfriend, and it'll probably be my last time in Goa. I want to do all the things I haven't had the chance to do before.
Base camp will be baga but will only spend 5 nights there because of the trips. So will spend a day on baga beach at my favourite Beach Shack (Bistros) then:
2 Nights in the Wildernest
3 Nights in Ciarans Camp Palolem
4 Day trip to hampi
One night out down tito's road (probably mambo's)
Day at Vagator
Day in Panjim
Day at Morjim or Ashvem
I also want to go to Arambol... but don't think i'll have time.
So as you can see i'll be staying away from the BCC stretch (beach wise as much as possible). As i've been three years previously I know where I like for food so wont have to take any risks.
I hope it'll be my best trip yet! I also hope its pretty quiet!
This March's holiday will be different. For a number of reasons. The main being i'm going with my Girlfriend, and it'll probably be my last time in Goa. I want to do all the things I haven't had the chance to do before.
Base camp will be baga but will only spend 5 nights there because of the trips. So will spend a day on baga beach at my favourite Beach Shack (Bistros) then:
2 Nights in the Wildernest
3 Nights in Ciarans Camp Palolem
4 Day trip to hampi
One night out down tito's road (probably mambo's)
Day at Vagator
Day in Panjim
Day at Morjim or Ashvem
I also want to go to Arambol... but don't think i'll have time.
So as you can see i'll be staying away from the BCC stretch (beach wise as much as possible). As i've been three years previously I know where I like for food so wont have to take any risks.
I hope it'll be my best trip yet! I also hope its pretty quiet!
Nice report Neil, honest as ever.
Can't wait for March 2009.
Can't wait for March 2009.
Great report Neil and very much mirrors my experience last year. We stayed in Siolim which we found to be great and was a good base for the more northern beaches. Agree wholeheartedly about All Spice, my first time in there last year, had always avoided it for some reason. Absolutely amazing food!
Very accurate report, Neil. I think you echo the sentiments many of us have re: Calangute.
Much prefer to spend my time in Arambol.
Much prefer to spend my time in Arambol.
Its a good job the world is made up of different people.
I assume Big Neil enjoys a solitary (ish) existence and loves to explore both places and cuisine ??!!. I on the other hand, can turn my hand to whatever's thrown at me.
I dont mind big crowds, I dont mind small crowds. If its not what I was expecting or didnt enjoy, then I'd move on. I have to say, i thoroughly enjoyed last years stay at candolim, hence the reason I'm going back this year. Most places change over time and you're very lucky if you get to see the unspoiled features before it does become commercialised.
If you are unlucky enough to only be able to enjoy 2 weeks holiday a year, as opposed to travelling for weeks/months on end, then you kinda put up and shut up and just get on with enjoying the time spent there.
Just my opinion.
I assume Big Neil enjoys a solitary (ish) existence and loves to explore both places and cuisine ??!!. I on the other hand, can turn my hand to whatever's thrown at me.
I dont mind big crowds, I dont mind small crowds. If its not what I was expecting or didnt enjoy, then I'd move on. I have to say, i thoroughly enjoyed last years stay at candolim, hence the reason I'm going back this year. Most places change over time and you're very lucky if you get to see the unspoiled features before it does become commercialised.
If you are unlucky enough to only be able to enjoy 2 weeks holiday a year, as opposed to travelling for weeks/months on end, then you kinda put up and shut up and just get on with enjoying the time spent there.
Just my opinion.
I'm with Knobsy on this one (no offence Neill)
total solitude is my idea of hell. As a child my mum and step dad would drive me past the hustle and bustle of places like Blackpool heading for the solitude of the Lakes, maybe thats why I loved Baga beach so much
Horses for courses I say
total solitude is my idea of hell. As a child my mum and step dad would drive me past the hustle and bustle of places like Blackpool heading for the solitude of the Lakes, maybe thats why I loved Baga beach so much
Horses for courses I say
hi, there s nought wrong with blackpool, only the weather. can t wait to go to goa first time
Prices N vs S
Around Baga River prices seemed to be expensive, they are relying on charters, wealthy Indian tourists and catching people from the Marina D who will pay for the 'boutique' restaurants.
Have always found that the Baga River Road restaurants are way overpriced.... some a bit of too much style over substance/value. When I use the term 'overpriced' this is relative. Those who have been away from the 'strip' will know what I mean.
Summary of restaurants on Baga River
From the bridge to MD.....
1. French restaurant (forgotten name).... I'm sure is very good. Pricey.
2. Myonnna... changed opinions after beiing there last night.... better menu.
3. New restaurant in progress looks very nicely designed...no doubt will be pricey though.
4. Lila cafe ....excellent, spotless and great service for breakfast/lunch... doesn't open in evening.
5. Little Italy (is it still called this?) very nice but pricey. Can't afford it.
6. The Whale Inn (previously 6 pack) diabolical breakfast was had there today, chicory coffee, freezing burnt soggy toast and they canny poach an egg. I pop in most days for a G&T, zero atmosphere in evening... full of timeshare salesmen. Evening food just OK.
7. Mexican Restaurant at Royal Goan. Supposedly good, but pricey. Can't comment on taste.... I've had Mexican food at source (Baja California/Tijuana) and you simply cannot get the right chillies (jalapeno/chipotle etc) and other ingredients (proper cheese for Enchilladas) in Goa to make authentic Mex food. And also the whole thing about Mexican food is it's supposed to be REALLY cheap.
8. A new restaurant opposite MD ???
9. Aubergine... supposed to be good ???
So all in all if you go for the glitzy looking restaurants be prepared to pay. This seems to be the new trend. Capture the new tourists who think it's cheap at 1/3 the UK price. You can still get great food at 1/6th the price in Goa. Just don't go near restaurants near package tour resorts (not that they are bad). Remember exchange rate is hovering at the low 70's to the pound. So 240 for that chicken curry and 80 for rice is well over 3 quid and sometimes near 4 which is expensive by Goan standards... should be £1.50 to £2.00. Seems very easy to spend 1000 rupees now. Seafood is another story.
Yes I know what we pay back home...that's not the point. There are a lot of empty restaurants outside Baga River. And if you are here for a month you will notice the up in prices.
South...
Benaulim, I at Meridian (fab food) was getting chicken curry, veg curry for 90/80 up at Baga 120/200+ rice extra, not many main chicken dishes over 100 and veg over 80 everywhere in this area. If you are in the area Meridian is a must, they do great Continental and Chinese also along with great service. The Tibetan/Thais next door ... same prices... excellent. Johncy's and Pedros are also good at similar prices.
Down a bit.....
The restaurants behind the Taj Exotica all up there prices as they know if you can afford the Taj ANYTHING is cheaper.
Further down yet
Cavellosim is likely to be more expensive though as that's where package tours go. It's not risen to Baga prices but soon will.
Trip report......
Monday daytime
Cycled up to Vagator yesterday and prices were vastly cheaper .. Mango Tree for example. Bar/Rest' owners are finding it quieter than usual... compared to last year 50% quieter I'm told by a friend who stays there. Oh and if you have ever tried to hire a cycle not motor bike in North Goa it's hard to find. Plenty bicycles in South.
Sunday/Monday Evening...
Went to the Hibiscus restaurant at Baga bridge, lovely chinese food but 260 for prawns szechuan and 80 for plain rice!!! Got this down South for 160 MAX plus 30 for rice.
Busy Baga
Around Baga it was ridiculously busy on Sunday, it's the place to go at weekend for locals and also India daytrippers. The new Goan tourist market is now the Indians (why not). Loads and I do mean LOADS of people on beach but not on beds.
Myonna was playing music till 12.00 last night, french girl singing was good. Karaoke was terrible.
Went to Morjim (Turtle Beach) yesterday still the same as ever, no change.
Going to Querim today.
All in all spending a lot of money on taxis getting away from Baga. Lucky I have a taxi driver who I have known for 8 years who is charging me the same as 4 years ago.
Taxi's ..... I could tell you all the little games they play and rivalry. But that's not for now.
Live Music in restaurants... mostly total c**p, you are getting charged for this on your bill.
Around Baga River prices seemed to be expensive, they are relying on charters, wealthy Indian tourists and catching people from the Marina D who will pay for the 'boutique' restaurants.
Have always found that the Baga River Road restaurants are way overpriced.... some a bit of too much style over substance/value. When I use the term 'overpriced' this is relative. Those who have been away from the 'strip' will know what I mean.
Summary of restaurants on Baga River
From the bridge to MD.....
1. French restaurant (forgotten name).... I'm sure is very good. Pricey.
2. Myonnna... changed opinions after beiing there last night.... better menu.
3. New restaurant in progress looks very nicely designed...no doubt will be pricey though.
4. Lila cafe ....excellent, spotless and great service for breakfast/lunch... doesn't open in evening.
5. Little Italy (is it still called this?) very nice but pricey. Can't afford it.
6. The Whale Inn (previously 6 pack) diabolical breakfast was had there today, chicory coffee, freezing burnt soggy toast and they canny poach an egg. I pop in most days for a G&T, zero atmosphere in evening... full of timeshare salesmen. Evening food just OK.
7. Mexican Restaurant at Royal Goan. Supposedly good, but pricey. Can't comment on taste.... I've had Mexican food at source (Baja California/Tijuana) and you simply cannot get the right chillies (jalapeno/chipotle etc) and other ingredients (proper cheese for Enchilladas) in Goa to make authentic Mex food. And also the whole thing about Mexican food is it's supposed to be REALLY cheap.
8. A new restaurant opposite MD ???
9. Aubergine... supposed to be good ???
So all in all if you go for the glitzy looking restaurants be prepared to pay. This seems to be the new trend. Capture the new tourists who think it's cheap at 1/3 the UK price. You can still get great food at 1/6th the price in Goa. Just don't go near restaurants near package tour resorts (not that they are bad). Remember exchange rate is hovering at the low 70's to the pound. So 240 for that chicken curry and 80 for rice is well over 3 quid and sometimes near 4 which is expensive by Goan standards... should be £1.50 to £2.00. Seems very easy to spend 1000 rupees now. Seafood is another story.
Yes I know what we pay back home...that's not the point. There are a lot of empty restaurants outside Baga River. And if you are here for a month you will notice the up in prices.
South...
Benaulim, I at Meridian (fab food) was getting chicken curry, veg curry for 90/80 up at Baga 120/200+ rice extra, not many main chicken dishes over 100 and veg over 80 everywhere in this area. If you are in the area Meridian is a must, they do great Continental and Chinese also along with great service. The Tibetan/Thais next door ... same prices... excellent. Johncy's and Pedros are also good at similar prices.
Down a bit.....
The restaurants behind the Taj Exotica all up there prices as they know if you can afford the Taj ANYTHING is cheaper.
Further down yet
Cavellosim is likely to be more expensive though as that's where package tours go. It's not risen to Baga prices but soon will.
Trip report......
Monday daytime
Cycled up to Vagator yesterday and prices were vastly cheaper .. Mango Tree for example. Bar/Rest' owners are finding it quieter than usual... compared to last year 50% quieter I'm told by a friend who stays there. Oh and if you have ever tried to hire a cycle not motor bike in North Goa it's hard to find. Plenty bicycles in South.
Sunday/Monday Evening...
Went to the Hibiscus restaurant at Baga bridge, lovely chinese food but 260 for prawns szechuan and 80 for plain rice!!! Got this down South for 160 MAX plus 30 for rice.
Busy Baga
Around Baga it was ridiculously busy on Sunday, it's the place to go at weekend for locals and also India daytrippers. The new Goan tourist market is now the Indians (why not). Loads and I do mean LOADS of people on beach but not on beds.
Myonna was playing music till 12.00 last night, french girl singing was good. Karaoke was terrible.
Went to Morjim (Turtle Beach) yesterday still the same as ever, no change.
Going to Querim today.
All in all spending a lot of money on taxis getting away from Baga. Lucky I have a taxi driver who I have known for 8 years who is charging me the same as 4 years ago.
Taxi's ..... I could tell you all the little games they play and rivalry. But that's not for now.
Live Music in restaurants... mostly total c**p, you are getting charged for this on your bill.
Good, honest report Big Neil - agree with you!
When we went Jan/Feb this year for 2 weeks we said then it would be our last year as the changes to Calangute etc.
We did the things we'd been promising ourselves - overnight on the Mandovi on rice boat - bus down to Palolem for 4-5 days...etc.
If we go back to India it will probably be to Kerala. Hopefully off to Cambodia next year.
Hope you have a great time Mardon - I remember your last report
When we went Jan/Feb this year for 2 weeks we said then it would be our last year as the changes to Calangute etc.
We did the things we'd been promising ourselves - overnight on the Mandovi on rice boat - bus down to Palolem for 4-5 days...etc.
If we go back to India it will probably be to Kerala. Hopefully off to Cambodia next year.
Hope you have a great time Mardon - I remember your last report
Great report we are in that area from 11.12.08 cant wait.
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