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Hi FLora and welcome to HT!

There is a little information HERE while you are waiting for replies.

luci :wave
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hi hope you get plenty of replies as me and hubby have booked to go on the island star on 17 november and looking forward to it
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Hi Linda. Is this your itinerary?
Palma, Majorca
Lisbon, Portugal
Lisbon, Portugal
Funchal, Madeira
Arrecife, Lanzarote
Mindelo, Cape Verde Islands
Recife, Brazil
Salvador, Brazil
Vitoria, Brazil
Rio de Janeiro, Brazil
Santos, Brazil

Apologies for never having got around to reviewing my own transatlantic to Brazil, MSC cruise. I started a long review and then ran out of steam when the exertions of the trip caught up with me. I'll have to dig it out and complete it for the site, especially as it is coming up to booking time for these trips!

I had a fabulous time. The itinerary is nicely spaced and, all being well, the weather warms up the whole way south. Escaping our winter and gaining a week of summer in December is a real boost.

The ports i share with you are: Funchal; Recife; Salvador and, of course, Rio. The highlight is undoubtedly Rio, and fittingly comes at the end of the trip. Quite frankly the views are so stunning, and quite literally breathtaking that I wonder if I will ever see a city to rival it.

Funchal is beautiful. As a personal preference I am not keen on organised tours ( I don't keep too fit, despite being in my 20s, and don't' cope too well with being herded about). What i tend to do is group together with a couple of other travellers and hire a taxi for a couple of hours. True, Funchal was a little dearer than most ports, but still 80 for 4 people for 4 hrs is good value. The driver took us to the view points, followed us as we careered down the hill on the toboggans, and picked us up at the bottom (otherwise you have a long walk!), then we went to pico dos barcelos view point and a charming fishing village, via Christiano Ronaldo's house. Once the four hours was up i asked to be dropped at the cable car station and had an enjoyable trip up to Monte (I'd already been in the taxi, but the cable car is well worth doing) Near the base station is the market hall with amazing displays of fruit, some unique to the island. Ask for the Filomento (a cross between a banana and a pineapple). the ship will be within a long walk from the market, but i took a taxi back.

I visited Tenerife, not Lanzarote and, frustratingly we sailed through the middle of the Cape Verde islands (just out of mobile phone range!!!), although, from what I've heard there isn't a lot to see.

Recife was my first taste of Brazil and it was very enjoyable. I took my first organised excursion here because i has been warned so often about the crime. The staff and Brazilian passengers on-board were obviously concerned and apologised for having to warn me but felt they should. The tour took me to Olinda, a beautiful old town, which shouldn't be missed. Then on to Recife centre which was attractive, but nothing special. The locals call it the Venice of Brazil, but all i saw was one very Amsterdam-like street to back up their claim. Then we went on to a shopping mall which was converted from a prison. Each cell was an very tiny individual shop. The prices are about double the outside price, still ridiculously cheap, but inside you are much safer. Finally we had all of 5 minutes at the golden beach. There was a free bus shuttle laid on by a jeweller which I'd have taken advantage of to stay longer, but i didn't find out about it until i returned to the ship. If you have that option and take a tour I'd recommend spending a little more time there. The stalls sell tasty chilled coconut milk. They chill the whole coconut then slice off the top with a cleaver and stick a straw in it. Delicious, but you'll need the loo before long!

Salvador was the place i felt least comfortable and where crime is highest. Having gained confidence from Recife I organised my usual taxi tour (4hrs, with a driver and an english speaking guide in a Mercedes minibus, for about £40, £50 with tips, for the 4 of us!). You can do this from within the cruise "terminal" or there is plenty of options outside. If you can get a group of you on the ship to agree to it, then it's a good idea, as many of the people who were on organised tours were marched for hours around the town in scorching sun, while we enjoyed being whisked door to door in air-conditioned comfort. We were taken to see the Bonfim church in a poorer district. It was nice enough and it was good to see where normal people lived, but - well it was an experience! We were hounded from the start, and i made the mistake of giving an old woman a handful of coins. It was spotted and we were chased back to the minibus. We had to shut the door on about a dozen grasping hands. Never again! Now, to give something back, I'll buy small items, even if i don't need them. We went to a view point and looked back on the bay before going to the main tourist sites. The lighthouse/fortress, the new tourist town, and then, finally, the Pelorinho (old town), which is where we should have spent the majority of time, but we'd all run out of energy and the taxi time was up. The town is beautiful and has stunning churches, but even here, in this more tourist oriented part of town with high policing levels my lunch was begged from me. The elevator (the first in Brazil) from the Pelorinho down to the lower part, where the ship is docked is a favourite haunt of pick-pockets, apparently, so take extra care. There is a bustling market hall at eh bottom within an easy walk of the ship, but again you may feel safer in the taxi. Salvador holds the wildest carnival in Brazil. It is even better than Rio's apparently. Watching it on the web, this year, i can well believe that.

Rio is simply amazing - stunning. But I had only 24hrs to enjoy it and i suspect you will have even less. The weather can be unpredictable with mist and clouds obscuring the mountains, but thankfully it was perfect for me. As this was our last stop i organised and negotiated a minibus tour for a group from the ship prices were dearer than Salvador but still very good value. I think the 10 of us each paid about £15 for a five hour tour. By organising it ourselves we managed to see both Corcovado (the iconic statue of Christ), have lunch at the cafe/restaurant at his feet - surely the best situated restaurant in the world. The Acai smoothie was delicious. Then we were driven along Copacabana beach to SugarLoaf Mountain. Taking the cable car was a special moment for me. I love the Bond films and it is exactly as it was in Moonraker - try to see the film before you go! Again the views are stunning. Back to the hotel and that was five hours. I have the contact details somewhere if you'd like to book the driver - he was excellent. A few of the other went to see a samba show, but most were so exhausted we missed out on Rio's famed nightlife. An hour on Copacabana next day, was spent trying to think of reasons why i would miss the plane (failing) and then it was the very long journey home.

The currency is the Brazilian Real (pronounced he-al), roughly 4 to the pound, 2 to the dollar, which is acceptable for most taxi drivers. However take Real and dollars and take very small denominations. The people are so poor that they struggle to give you change, even from a Rs10 note (£2.50). I took only 5 and 10 notes, anything else is almost unusable in most shops/kiosks.

Safety is a worry. I was warned that there are teenage boys who would kill you for a watch. I don't want to frighten you - I am only telling you what I was told. Don't wear jewelery and use the cheapest looking watch you have. Keep camera hidden and if you are going to the beach try and take the bare minimum. Brazilians seem to get by on skimpy costumes and flip flops! If you are carrying a wallet or purse keep it discreet and keep only a very little money in it. Hide the rest of your money in a hidden money-belt, so if the worst comes to the worst you can hand over your wallet - avoid confrontations. Having said all that, on my ship i only heard of one mugging, where someone, who was walking in the wrong area and dangling an expensive camera by it's cord had the cord cut and the camera swiped. It was avoidable, and stupid. It could have happened anywhere. Take a few precautions, travel in groups and you will be perfectly safe. Brazilian people are so warm and friendly (and stunningly beautiful/handsome), but the huge inequality and poverty means a relatively small few give the majority a bad reputation.

I had the most fantastic holiday of my life. It felt like a huge adventure: I visited three continents; visited 4 new countries; crossed the equator for the first time, with an initiation ceremony (like Michael Palin in Around the World in 80 Days); saw the Thumb of God (an island that very few visit); saw flying fish and humming birds; enjoyed some stuning beaches; pretended i was James Bond; made some fantastic new friends (and one life-long enemy- it's a long story); and have seen one of the most amazing views in the world.

Much as I like to try new things, i am seriously considering doing it all again this winter!

I've rambled on far more than i meant to, so I apologise, but it's bringing all the amazing memories flooding back.

Anything else just ask!

Craig
MSC Armonia - Voyage to Rio - November/December 2006
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Aw Craig, I think you have just done that review you were going to get round to! :lol:

Many thanks for that. I knew you had been on this cruise, but wasn't sure when you would be back on the forum to share your experiences.

luci :wave
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Hi! We did the Brazil cruise on the Escape in 2003, and are doing it again this year. Our itinerary is slightly different to the Island Star, and to the one we did in 2003.
Sorry you didn't like Salvador Craig, we had a splendid time there, joined in a street party.
We enjoyed Buzios the best, that's why we are going on the escape again instead of the Star.
Of course Rio is a great place, but Buzios is small and very friendly with great cheap eating places.
We didn't go off ship at the Cape Verde Islands, don't think there is much to see at Mindelo.
I'm sure you will enjoy your cruise on the Star. Looking forward to ours too. Seeing new places like Natal and Fortalaze, which we didn't do on the last one.

Marn.
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I am not saying I didn't like Salvador, I just didn't feel comfortable there as I had a few "experiences" and had been warned about Salvador in particular. For me that is what travel is about, but I can imagine other people in the same situation being perturbed. It wouldn't stop me from getting off the ship again, indeed I am planning a repeat voyage, but I wouldn't like to spend too much time there, and i would choose the places I went to in the town more carefully (probably sticking to the Pelorinho, and the beach near the lighthouse, where the police presence is highest) and take great care.

I really liked Maceio. There were wonderful craft villages and desert islands (deserted that is apart from 150 cruise ship passengers), with flying fish and humming birds. I don't know Buzios but i'd imagine it has the same sort of vibe.

I have considered Escape for my return but the single supplements are still too high. It looks like MSC is the best option again (the 8% MSC Club card discount will help).

Some good friends from my Armonia cruise are repeating the journey on Island Escape (for at least the second time), this year. If you bump into Michael and Jean, Marn say hello from Craig!
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You will find everything to be cheap in Brazil, even in the tourist areas. However a lot of the craft stuff is the same everywhere. I brought home wood carvings which are reasonably light, some original naive style art of Salvador, a collection of crewel work-type shawls, the obligatory Brazil football shirt, and an ever so slightly tacky, stone Corcovado Jesus which is now in pride of place on my mantelpiece. I spent far less than I thought I would. For example the shawls and bolero tops were only about the equivalent of £13 or so. You will also find a lot of religious trinkets. crosses and the saint bangles etc. These cost only a couple of pounds. Also nice are carved and decorated coconut belts and jewelery - again only a few pounds.

If possible leave some room in your suitcase, because you are getting great value and you are helping some of the poorest people to make an honest living.

The Rio airport duty-free is very cheap. I brought 400 Marlboro cigarettes home for an uncle for about $45 US. The strange thing is it was charged in US$. Once air-side there was little or no opportunity to spend your remaining real.
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