Far East

Discussions regarding holidays in the Far East.
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Fiona your hotel looks absolutely fantastic, really fancy Ubud myself, mmmmm wonder should we go next year :think
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I would go there every year- but I need to try other places some time :D
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Great pics Fiona

I'd say from your Ubud street scene that the locals are dressed and on their way to a ceremony... interesting to see a western lady wearing ceremonial clothes. Perhaps she lives there or is an invited guest.
Years ago we attended a cremation of well over 100 people and a very special and spectacular day (and very very long) I'd say there was about a dozen westerners and 5000 Balinese. Balinese cremations are not sad occasions... often their dead have been buried 'temporarily' for a number of years until the family can save up. Often, if a VIP is being cremated they will retrieve their loved ones and have a mass cremation.

We stood back as we didn't wish to intrude. We would have liked to have slipped away quietly at the end of the day but the custom was we were to shake the hands of the village elders and thank them, which we did... but they wanted to chat and practice their English and talk about Australia :-)

The kids were wonderful... I have a photo of us surrounded by them, however, on the photo all we can see is the backs of their heads as they were looking at us... all fairish hair and white skin.

Cheers Geri
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Lovely photo's Fiona, its only 4 weeks till we get to Bali, I have informed my credit card company this morning of the dates in Bali (just in case) and I was giddy then ;) and thanks to Geri information etc we have booked the Tegal Sari for 2 nights, although we have had to book go earlier in the holiday than we intended as they were booked up.....really cant wait now.

Regards
Jules
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The cremation preparations were ongoing so there was always something to see. We have been lucky as last year we were there during major celebrations.
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Finally getting round to the last part of my report. :)
There is something really special about Bali. Before our holiday I wasn't sure how I would like it as I have been unwell for a while and we had decided to just take things very easy this time. I couldn't imagine going to Bali and not going out and about. However, Ubud was really like one big trip
We left Sanur in blazing sunshine and soon came upon the clouds. Ubud is inland and about 300m above sea level so it is meant to be cooler and will often be cloudy. I say "meant" as I'm not sure if there was a lot of difference in the temperature.
We stayed in Ubud last year, outwith the main town area but only 5 mins by the shuttle. This time we had picked a hotel right on one of the main roads in Ubud- Monkey Forest Road. We had walked up and down this road a lot last year and could not remember seeing it. However, when we saw the water feature outside we recognised it. The hotel owners also own the art gallery at the front of the hotel. Infact that is their main business. You go past that, and over a path over more water to get to the reception. You then walk through a lovely green area, with rice fields to the left, to get to the accomodation. I have linked to my hotel review in my first post so won't go into details here. Feel free to ask away though! For those who know Ubud the hotel is a few minutes walk past the big football field.
We unpacked and then went off for a wonder. Had a lovely lunch at the Reggae bar on Monkey Forest and then went up to the main part of Ubud, beside the Tourist Office, which we wanted to visit to plan which dances we wanted to see. We spent the rest of the time exploring the streets of Ubud. We had only stuck to the main ones last year and I began to get an idea of how much bigger Ubud was than I had thought. We actually wondered for a lot longer than we had meant as we got lost :D
Ubud is just such a lovely place. You can't walk more than a couple of minutes without coming across another temple. Although it was cloudy it was humid and we stopped for a drink at the Riverview restuarant- which is down a lot of steps and then a climb up a hill. It looked better from a distance than what it actually was I have to say. Right across from the Tourist Office a road had been blocked off and there was a major ceremony going on, which we could not enter but could watch from a distance. It was to do with a mass cremation of 64 people- we did not realise that at the time though. \On our return to our hotel we sat at a table in the shade by our stunning pool and had some Javanese tea and Balinese cake( complimentary)
That evening we went to a Legong dance. There were a few to choose from and we chose this one as it was going to be at the Ubud Palace Temple. This is the one you are told you should go to. We had tried to do this last year but found we were guided to another temple close by as it was shut. The same thing happened this time. :) This time we were given free transport to it.
There is something absolutely magical about sitting in a temple watching Balinese dance. As well as the setting, the movements are so intricate, even down to the eyes, and the costumes are stunning. The dances are either at 7pm or 7.30pm and last approx an hour. The hour just speeds by.
Ubud is definitely not a place to go for nightlife. Most places are closed at 11pm and a few do open till midnight- but not many.
So when you come out from the dance you have to find someplace to eat fairly quickly( it is recommended you try to get to a restaurant by 9pm). The first two places we tried( and had planned on going to) were full up. Other places were empty. We had already walked for some distance by this time and I was beginning to despair. We decided to take the road off Monkey Forest alongside the football pitches and came across a lovely street with a few possible places. We chose Dragonfly(OH always thinks of Fawlty Towers when he hears that name- do you remember the one about the bet on the horse? :) ). What a great find. Superb food there and if we had had longer than 3 days then we would have returned. An added bonus is that they do some rather nice wine by the glass( Australian- and not too bad price wise). By 11pm they were taking the candles off all the empty tables and so we decided to go back to our hotel. On the way we found a restaurant/bar still open and doing business. It was part of a hotel complex but I can't remember the name. We had a drink there but found it cost about 3 times the cost of anywhere else so didn't have another one :rofl
We went back to our lovely walled back garden and had a few drinks there to finish the night off.
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Our second day we spent shopping. Great place for it. :) I was looking for jewellery but kept seeing shops I liked the look of so we never got more than a few metres before I was off back into another shop. I did get quite a bit of jewellery. There are many original designs there. The most I spent on any piece was £35.
We also went up and had a look at what was going on with the cremation ceremonies. You can see what it looked like from the photos I posted. 64 coffins laid side by side on a raised platform, surrounded by offerings. Cremations are joyful occasions. A lot had passed away a while ago- months or even years. This is quite usual. An important person will be cremated right away and that is when the rest are cremated. I'm not too up on the belief behind it but it is thought that you are releasing the spirit from its earthly body.
We had a few breaks from shopping and then found an internet cafe and spent a bit of time there catching up with emails. It cost an extortianate £1 for an hour :rofl
Shopping is very tiring :) so we had an hour or so relaxing in our small walled garden and then got ready for night.
During our wandering around we had come across the Dirty Duck which we had read about before hand. It is close to the actual monkey forest. We had a look inside and it is huge and backs on to rice fields. Lovely setting with a pond area as well.
We went there at night. Had a table with no-one near us. In the evening we found that they had hundreds of candles out. If you want somewhere for a romantic meal, this is it. We had a couple of starters then both of course opted for the duck- which is a must try in Bali. Great place and I would definitely hope to return.
We then went back to our hotel and 2 mins walk up the road to the Reggae Bar which had a brilliant group on and was bouncing. It actually stayed open till midnight too.
Our last full day we spent by the pool in the morning. It was a very sunny day and very hot. We went for a late lunch to Ibu Okas. This is a must do place and you go there for roast suckling pig. Lovely setting- again you can see it in my photos. I am not really a fan of pork but tried some of the OHs. You sit on the ground and eat the pork and rice with your fingers. OH raved about how good it was.
One not so good thing about Ubud this year is that there were a few beggars. This is not something the Balinese like and we were told that the beggars are not Balinese. They use their children to do the begging. They also carry and try to sell the most lethal looking of knives. Can't say I was too chuffed with that.
Our last evening we went to the all female kecak dance. The kecak is totally unique and very difficult to describe. There is a chorus of at least 50 ( and its usually males) who provide the only "music" with vocal chants. We had seen the male version last year and had been spellbound with it. Wasn't sure if the female version would be a disappointment. They had only been formed a short while ago but had spent 4 months rehearsing. We came away not being able to decide which version was better. Sitting there at the temple, sitting and watching this, I suddenly felt very emotional. I hope that the dances do not die out. They get precious little money for the performances- we were about £4 each. There can often be as many taking part as in the audience. They dont do it for the money though. They love to think that people want to see the dances. It really is very special.
We went from there to Cafe Lotus which often turns people away. To be honest, I think its may be living on its reputation. We did have a nice meal there but it was my least favourite of all my places during our holiday.
We had a few drinks on the way back and had our last evening in our garden. After breakfast the following morning we set off to the airport and for Singapore.
I know we will be back- but not sure when. Ubud was definitely the highlight of our holiday.
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Thanks again Fiona for your JBR's.

The Kecak dance is my favourite of all the Balinese dances (plenty on you tube) it would be interesting to see the female version. We saw the Kecak again last year at Uluwatu but I was bitten by a monkey just before going in so I was a bit pre-occupied with what had just happened (I was lucky the skin not wasn't broken but it still hurt leaving teeth marks) I won't go again as I did nothing to provoke it.

Jules Have a wonderful time in Bali and hope you love Tegal Sari and don't forget to tell us how you went and watch out for them pesky monkeys !!

Cheers Geri
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I must have been lucky in Monkey forest. We went twice with no problems( gave it a miss this time) but have heard other stories of troublesome monkeys.It is a lovely place to see though :)
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Hi Fiona , really enjoyed reading about Ubud, it sounds fantastic , if I ever do get to Bali , I will make sure we stay there for a few nights, thanks for sharing with us :tup
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Shirley
KNowing you, I'm sure you will make it someday :)
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Hope I do Fiona :)
still tryng to sort next year , my shortlist is

Bangkok, Chiang Mai, Ko Phangan ,Bangkok

Barbados

Sri Lanka

Bali :think
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omg
I dont have a shortlist- its so long :rofl
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Hi Fiona

Your report is great!

I cannot wait for our holiday now! In the end we decided (well it was mainly me and my poor husband just agreed :D ) that we will stay in 4 different hotels in Bali. We decided on 2 nights in Amed, 3 in Ubud and last night in one hotel close to the airport as we have to catch early flight.

We will stay for 2 nights in Teral Sari as everybody says that it is nice place and for our anniversary we booked Ubud Hanging Gardens as a treat.

It may sound little ambitious, but we already booked our driver for 3 days to show us round and as we will be in Tioman 5 days prior to Bali, I think that hopefully we will have enought relaxing there.

Thanks again for your great read!
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