A personal, subjective, opinion based on 15 nights overall.

Having travelled to India several times and really wanting a change from Goa, Kerala and the backwaters seemed an appealing option. Being unsure of what Kerala could offer, we decided to make it a two country trip and also return to Sri Lanka, which we last visited in 2003, before the Tsunami.

The planning of flights almost became a no-brain decision. We wanted to minimise the chaos of Indian airport transfers and as there are no direct flights UK to Cochin or Trivandrum, decided to fly on Emirates a good choice for ease of transfer, connection timings and price. Surprisingly we also found that we could put the flights and hotels together through Kuoni at a lower cost than DIY.
We flew from LHR T3 on an A380, economy class. The seating seemed wider than usual and there was plenty of legroom. Cabin staff were very good, the food was fine and IFE good. Transfer at Dubai was painless, but I think the airport in Dubai has gone downhill from what it used to be. The second leg from DXB to Trivandrum was on an A320 (under 4 hours) and once again cabin crew, food and entertainment were all good. Arrival at Trivandrum was slightly ahead of schedule and, wonder of wonders, we were through Indian immigration and customs in no time and were off to find our transport.

A word of advice is to change some money at the airport where limited facilities are available. We experienced difficulties and low limits on the few ATMs that we were able to find, both en-route to the hotel and in Kovalam. We had chosen to stay at the Leela, Kovalam and the journey from the airport took about 40 to 45 minutes I had forgotten just how bad Indian drivers / roads were and the 45 minutes seemed to stretch to an eternity!

The check-in at the Leela was quick, efficient and painless and the welcome warm shell necklaces, cold towels and drinks. It was not until we got to our room (a pavilion room with outside Jacuzzi and sea view) that we realised that we had made a mistake. To say that the room needed a refurbishment would be an understatement poor decoration, broken door and insecure locks and a Jacuzzi that appeared to have been used for farmyard animals. We rejected the room and opted to pay for an upgrade to a Beach view superior room ( a matter of 1,000 INR per night, so no big deal. No club rooms were available.

Our room was quite well appointed, with a great view from our balcony and whilst the decoration was a little tired, the room size and the very large bathroom was more than adequate. The Leela overlooks the beaches to the North and South from a rocky headland and the hotel provides buggies to ferry you to both the main gate and the lower beach area a welcome means of transport during the heat of the day.

There are few restaurants within easy walking distance of the hotel and we found the main beach (South of hotel) to be disappointing. There were no shacks to speak of and regardless of the hype about Kovalam beach it can in no way compare with the beaches of South Goa an nor indeed could the local restaurants. I will post a review of hotel in the hotel section but, to prcis my view, the two restaurants and the food available within the hotel were not adequate for our needs.

We booked a Kettuvallam (rice barge converted to houseboat) locatlly, for a private over night tour on the backwaters and thank goodness. This was a real highlight and a welcome break from the hotel.

We had heard of good and bad experiences from others, but someone was smiling on us for our trip. We travelled for a couple of hours to meet the houseboat at Kollam (The backwaters stretch from the better known Allepey all the way down) and what a surprise. Our boat had two en suite guest cabins with aircon and a crew of 3 captain, engineer and cook, all of whom worked as a most hospitable team and really made our stay a thoroughly enjoyable experience. http://www.teambruce.co.uk/Pix/houseboat.jpg

We cruised the backwaters with lunch http://www.teambruce.co.uk/Pix/bwlunch.jpg and dinner taken on board good quality food and far, far too much to eat. It was a great window on both the wildlife and the people. Where the backwaters were very narrow, we transferred to a canoe to tour the outer part of a village. The people were so friendly and welcoming and the children absolutely fascinating. Not once did we experience any sellers or beggars, just a natural way of life. Sunset over the backwaters was stunning http://www.teambruce.co.uk/Pix/bwsunset.jpg as was sunrise, observed from water level following an unexpectedly restful night, the following morning. After breakfast ( a simple affair of fruit, eggs, bread and, jams) we set off for the jetty where our transport was to meet us. Life on the backwaters, was once again, fascinating, but after a couple of hours we were at the jetty, with our transport waiting to take us back, via the madness of Keralan roads, to our hotel. The houseboat was an experience that we would not have missed.

On our return to the hotel we tended to laze by the pool, making the most of the excellent weather. Although we did venture down to the beaches and Kovalam village, this was more for a change of scenery than for the draw of these places. Beware, however! The 1st day of every month is alcohol free in all bars and restaurants including hotels, which rather spoiled our final meal / night.
Next it was off the Colombo. Both the transfer and, surprisingly, the airport formalities were very quick. There is not much at Trivandrum airport, but drinks and snacks are available and the toilets were clean (no paper though). The flight of just under one hour by Sri Lankan Airways A320 was perfectly good with water and snack being served.

Colombo airport was easy to negotiate. We had obtained Electronic Travel Authority, prior to leaving UK and immigration was straightforward although the luggage seemed to take an age to arrive. Exchanging money in the terminal, where several banks compete for your business was simple and a good rate given.

Once again we had booked transfers and so began the short journey to The Blue Water at Waddwa, which took about 2 ¼ hours. Whilst driving in Sri Lanka is pretty hair raising, believe it or not we found it better than Kerala.

Check in at the hotel was simple and we were provided with cold towels and the usual welcome drink which was most appreciated, following our drive. Our immediate impression of the hotel was of space, light and air. It was well designed and laid out giving a good first impression. We had booked a superior deluxe room and it was spacious, bright and well decorated and furnished a very good room http://www.teambruce.co.uk/Pix/bwater.jpg

A review of the hotel will be given in the hotel section, but a précis is that there was little in the immediate vicinity of the hotel, housekeeping was poor to bad, and the food in the restaurants catered for an all-inclusive clientele, many from Russia and Eastern Europe. The pool was good, but there was little shade, other than that given by the natural palm trees.

We took two trips, arranged privately with a guide recommended by contacts in the UK (Newton) http://www.extracover.org.uk/ . As we had visited Sigiriya, Dambulla, Kandy, Dambulla, and Nuwara Elia on previous visits, we decided to look around at the Ratnapura, Hortons Plain area and spend an overnight at Ella. An interesting trip, encompassing gem mines, tea plantations and stunning scenery. Ella is served by a railway link to Kandy and many visitors arrive by train and trek throughout the area. There are only small hotel / guest house establishments in Ella and we stayed in the Hotel Country Comfort. Our room was spacious with en-suite facilities and furnished in a very pleasant colonial style. It was clean and comfortable, without air conditioning we found a fan to be perfectly adequate.

Ella has a couple of bars / restaurants and shops, but it is all low key ( I am certain that the trekkers would rather save their energy for the task ahead, rather than partake in high profile nightlife). We found the village sufficient for our needs and whilst the service at the hotel was “amateur, the friendliness and enthusiasm of the staff, coupled with an adequate breakfast (and exceptional tea to drink) has made this a stay to remember. http://www.teambruce.co.uk/Pix/cc.jpg

Our second trip was to Galle. We had meant to make this trip by train, however the line is currently closed for major upgrading just South of Kalutera so we travelled by car. Unfortunately it was a Poya day and many shops in Galle were closed. We took a look round the fort, established by the Portugese around 1588 and fortified by the Dutch in the mid 17th century, finally taken over by the British in the late 18th century http://gallefortguide.com/history/ . An interesting few hours but as Galle was closed, not quite what we went there for.

It was then back to our hotel for the final couple of days, spent in the spa (good but rather expensive) and lazing around the pool.
Our 15 day break was then over and it was back to the UK - CMB to LHR via DXB on Emirates (B777-300ER and A380). Once again very good service, food and iFE.

Would we return to Kerala? possibly not we prefer Goa, but wouldnt have missed the houseboat!
Would we return to the Leela Kovalam? no, Neither the hotel or location suited us
Would we return to Sri Lanka? possibly, but not a high priority.
Would we return to the Blue Water? no, poor housekeeping and, for us, poor location

Peter