Bangkok and Chiang Mai November 2007-11-28

We decided to try to avoid Heathrow and try a flight from Gatwick. Our choice of flights was therefore, perhaps, unusual - but worked well on the outbound trip. LGW-AMS via BA economy, AMS-BKK via China Airlines business and a few days later BKK-CNX economy. This would work well for anyone who normally has to take a regional flight to Heathrow.

Helpful as always, BA refused to check our bags through to BKK as CI are not a 'partner' airline (rather strange and unhelpful as we were able to check bags though from Chiang Mai through BKK and AMS to LGW on the return). BA also managed to upset the apple cart on the return journey - but more later.

Utility flight by BA from Gatwick, landing on time, KLM business lounge at AMS (after retrieving our bags, going through Dutch Immigration, checking in for CI, passing through security we only had an hour or so in the lounge). The CI flight to BKK, seating, FAs and food were all excellent. Transfer to Shangri-La hotel was smooth by Shangri-La limousine.

We had requested an early check-in in a double room. The Shangri-La had put this on request, but only had a twin room available as the hotel was full. The staff were all very helpful, efficient and polite and we accepted this room. Lovely river and pool view on 14th Floor. The state of the room however left much to be desired (realised later). I will do a review when I get more time but suffice it to say that we will never stay there again.

General sightseeing in Bangkok taking in the river, Grand Palace, several Wats and, of course the shops. Other than visiting different Wats we had done this before so nothing new. The Grand Palace was busier than we have ever known and it was difficult to take decent photographs - but hey we already have loads!

Ate in some 'trendy' restaurant off Silom on the first night. Have now lost the name, but small bland portions eaten in a stylish atmosphere - not particularly Thai, not particularly good, not particularly cheap.

We ate at Suda (Sukhumvit Soi 14) with friends who live in Thailand on second night - very cheap, very Thai (looks unappetising), very good. Then off to an Issan (spelled Y'San) disco. My memory gets rather vague about this particular evening but my brain still reverberates to the 'rave' beat of the music and the picture of Issan Thai people, of all ages, gyrating to the music. It is somewhere in the suburbs way away from the tourist trail and we would never have known about it if it weren't for the 'local knowledge'. They made we ageing westerners most welcome - which probably explains why it was a great evening, never to be forgotten.

The third night was our anniversary. We had booked the Manohra dinner cruise for ourselves and our friends and this was most enjoyable. The Marriott (who run the cruises) had no problem reserving a table for 4 a couple of months in advance. We simply confirmed by phone when we arrived in Bangkok and paid by card after the meal. We somehow managed to blow almost £200 for a meal for the 4 of us - but it was a great evening (can recommend the Singapore Slings and the Fizzy Pop - perhaps that's where the money went?) Food good - although the menu may be a little more 'touristy' than last time we did the trip (two years ago).

The following day it was off to Chiang Mai. Good internal flight by Thai of about 1 hour duration on a newish airbus. Smooth transfer to the Amari Rincome by the hotel mini bus - and what a surprise.

Most hotels in Thailand are good, with friendly helpful staff. The staff at the Rincome were exceptional, the welcome efficient and warm. We had booked a deluxe room with terrace overlooking the pool (the quieter side of the hotel). The room was excellent - a smaller version of the Shangri-La layout. It was clean, well furnished, had a newish carpet and had obviously been redecorated recently. Absolutely superb.

There are two pools here and two restaurants. The breakfast buffet is extremely good - almost up to the Landmark (Bangkok) standard. Once again, I will review the hotel later.

Several days exploring Chiang Mai, Chiang Rai, Golden Triangle (including Laos) and the Myanmar border at Mae Sai. This was all far too fast and we will need to go back to Chiang Mai to visit all the things we missed (oh dear!).

One sight (and site) not to miss is the, still being erected, Wat Rong Khun at Chiang Rai. I cannot describe this so suggest that this is Googled or see this link http://www.pbase.com/boon3887/wat_rong_khun .

Restaurant recommendations (apart from the hotel which was good) Riverside Inn, on the far side of the river Ping, and the Hong Taew Inn - almost opposite the Amari. Great food, great ambiance, reasonable price.

We took a couple of Spa packages at the Sinativa Spa, close to the Amari. This Spa is not the prettiest, but the first package of Thai steam, body scrum (edited PeteB - I, of course, meant body scrub but will leave this in as a Freudian slip) , four hand massage and petal Jacuzzi was excellent. We repeated the package a few days later and it can only be described as poor with the Steam coming at the end and treatments being rushed. Not the relaxing experience (although I did nod off during the four hand massage - spoil yourself try this one!).

One thing to bear in mind is that the Amari is over flown as it is close to and on the flight path of Chiang Mai airport. This did not spoil the hotel for us, but the aircraft were more than noticeable - fortunately it is not an over busy airport

All too soon it was all over. Thai Airways to BKK (good flight) CI to AMS (great flight and I had about 5 hours sleep - unknown before!) and then it happened. BA transfer desk closed, with a note to check in at the gate. Went to gate and they would not issue boarding passes unless we went through the gate and security - unless we went back 40 mins before flight. Soooooo stuck in AMS airport in transit for ages with no boarding card (therefore no tax free shopping) just for the dubious privilege of eventually being able to board an old, dirty, packed 737 with no legroom to return to Gatwick. Oh yes, we did get a biscuit with our coffee on the flight - I must be fair!

The BA staff that we met blamed the problem on AMS security - they didn't seem to get the point that all the problems were caused because their transfer desk was not manned (not much demand apparently). My wife has vowed that she will never travel BA again unless there is no real alternative.