2 week trip to Paros

This was our second visit to Parakia in Paros, we had lots of good memories but found the prices had gone up astronomically in the 2 years. One thing that did annoy me was that bread was constantly added to our bill even when turned it away or said we did not want it. They didn't like the fact that we asked them to remove it from the bill. At at least €2 at every meal when you could be eating out twice a day this comes to a tidy sum by the end of your holiday. Drinks in bars had also gone up quite a lot. Unless we drank beer we found it just as cheap to drink champagne as any other spirit and mixer. One good thing was the promenade that has appeared along the sea front making it safer to walk into the old town and port area. We did feel that the restaurants in the Livadia area had much more variety on the menu then the ones in the old town/port area and were better value for money. We also travelled with Kosmar again but felt their standards had slipped since being taken over by XL. We may as well have gone independently for all the service we had from any representative. We were supposed to have a welcome meeting on the first day but were given no information about this on our arrival. Fortunately we had been before so knew our way around but for other people in the apartments it was their first visit. The rep only visited the apartments once a week and was based in Naxos. On our previous visit we had a rep based in Parakia and she was excellent and gave us lots of tips on where to eat and drink and what to see and do. We still think Parakia is a great place to visit with fantastic restaurants, bars and shops (especially if you like shoes!). Late August is a good time to go, all the sales are on and shops are selling up at the end of the season. Excellent quality clothing.

24/08/07
We left home at 02:30 a.m by taxi for Manchester airport after one hour's sleep but we didn't mind as we were heading for the sun after a very wet English summer. The check in at the airport was brilliant; we flew with XL and were booked with Kosmar who have now been taken over by XL. We were met before we got anywhere near joining a queue and were put through the 'fast check in' by a member of staff, so from arriving at the airport and getting rid of our luggage took approximately 10 minutes which was amazing. As two people who always seem to have to pay for excess luggage either going out and/or returning we were greatly relieved to find that we were a few kilos under our allowance, so we were glad that all our weighing we had done whilst packing had been worth it. After paying over £40 for excess luggage on the way home from our last holiday in April we were determined the airline weren't going to get more money out of us again on this trip. As it was so early we weren't really hungry so just bought a coffee and muffin at the airport to put us on until we flew at 06:00 a.m. when we would be more ready for breakfast. We had a good flight with plenty of leg room, left 10 minutes late but made up most of the time on the way out and landed at Mykonos at 12:40 p.m. Because of rough seas we had to go to the other side of the island to catch the Naxos Star to take us on to Paros. As this wasn't schedule to leave until about 4:00 p.m. we had lunch at a beachside restaurant while we waited and enjoyed sitting in the sun. The restaurant, Thalassa Taverna, Kalafatis, was a bit pricey but the food was very good, we had moussaka and we were happy to be served by a waiter wearing a ManU shirt and we had a chat with him about football. This was quite an upmarket resort and restaurant with a DJ playing chill out music for the daytime crowd. The bar area had nice comfy seats. We relaxed by the seashore as we waited for the Naxos Star which left at 3.50 pm. We arrived in Noussa, Paros at 5.30 pm and went on by coach to Parakia where we were staying in Damias Village. This is our second stay at Damias Village and we arrived there at 6.00 pm. We dumped our cases and went to the supermarket for essentials, Ouzo, honey, butter, etc. We checked out a few restaurants on the way and decided to eat at Ambrossia in the evening which was quite local to us and we felt we needed an early night. There has been quite a bit of work done on the seafront since our last visit 2 years ago and there is now a promenade along the front which meant you didn't need eyes in the back of your head to watch out for cars etc as you walked along. There were also one or two nice new bars. We went back to the apartment, unpacked, had a shower and got ready to go for our meal with the help of Ouzo and Sprite. The Ambrosia Taverna was excellent with a very varied menu. We had stuffed chicken €7 and a large carafe of wine for €7.80. We noted from the restaurant review on the Paros restaurants website that they sold Turkish pies but unfortunately these no longer seem to be on the menu but I can thoroughly recommend the stuffed chicken. We were also brought a complimentary glass of brandy before we left.

25/08/07
Each morning started with a visit the bakery around the corner for a nice crusty loaf of bread. We had half for breakfast spread with Greek honey together with oranges and tea. The other half we ate on the beach with cheese and red wine for lunch. We bought a great big container of local red wine from the supermarket on the first day and this lasted us the entire 2 weeks for lunch on the days we spent on the beach, a very good buy. After breakfast we left with our list of restaurants and bars that we had got from the website. Some we knew from our previous visit but there were lots of new ones to try. We spent the morning scouting the restaurants and then headed back to the apartment to collect our towels and lunch and headed for the beach a couple of minutes from our apartment where we stayed until approx 5.30 pm. We started our evening at Pebbles rooftop bar with a glass of champagne (€5) whilst we watched the sunset, a nice thing to do at least once on your holiday. We then headed for one our favourite restaurants Il Sussuro de Pinto garden restaurant in the old town. We had Chefs salad €450, mixed fish of the day €15 for 2 people, bread rolls €2 for 2, nut pie €3 each, half litre of wine €6.50 and Irish coffee €4.00 each.

26/08/07
Day spent on the beach. Evening Apostolis Taverna - Swordfish €8, chips €2.50. Unfortunately the Greeks seem to have some difficulty in understanding we wanted the chips with the fish so we got these long before the fish arrived; they were brought as a starter. Wine was cheap at €2.50 for half a litre. Beers were also cheap. We were brought complimentary melon at the end of the meal. Mostly seafood on the menu otherwise not much choice. We then went to La Bodega, a jazz bar, for Frappe with Baileys.

27/08/07
After breakfast walked into old town/port area to check out travel agents/tourist office. The tourist office is a complete waste of space with absolutely nothing in there (situated in the old windmill in the port area). Caught bus to Noussa - €1.26 fare. Took photographs of squid hanging out and fishermen unloading boats. Sat down at cafe next to Barbarrosa but after asking for a drink 3 times and not receiving anything after waiting about half an hour we walked out and went to the 'Flaming Greek' for frappe. Went for a walk around the old town and checked out the shops. Went to Barbarrosa for lunch but as it didn't open until 2 pm we went for beer on the small beach at the other side of the harbour - very expensive €9 for 2 beers, but a lovely place to sit and while away your time. We then went back to Barbarrosa for lunch which consisted of beer, tzatziki with bread, taramasalata with more bread, Monkfish, half a litre of wine. Quite expensive and we didn't find the experience as good as our last visit. After lunch it was too late to do anything else so we headed back for the bus. We had a sandwich on the balcony before heading out in the late evening to the Pirate Bar for G&T's - €12 for 2.

28/08/07
Walked from Livadia to Krios and Manchello beaches. There is a boat that goes over from the port area for €3 every 20 minutes but it is a nice walk from Livadia along the cliff tops and you are part way there from that end of Livadia so I would recommend walking. The beach at Manchello was extremely crowded by the afternoon. Krios beach is much smaller with free sunbeds and great music playing, but if you don't like loud music you probably wouldn't like Krios. At lunchtime we had a drink at Manchello Beach Bar and had our own bread, cheese and wine for lunch on the beach then on our way back at the end of the day we called into Krios Beach Bar for a drink. This bar has a great atmosphere and full moon parties are held here during the season. After arriving back at the apartment at about 8pm we got ready for our night out helped along by our usual Ouzo and Sprite and headed for Aeolla Taverna (Livadia) where we had garlic bread, Kleftico and one litre of wine for €28 for two. We then went to 'Love' bar for drinks. Frappe with Baileys €8 for 2, great bar, open late.

29/08/07
Walked along back streets of Parakia into town to Bank and supermarket then spent rest of day on beach. Returned to apartment early evening to see rep to book excursion to Delos/Mykonos on Thursday. In the evening we went to Bar Irini in the old town for Singapore Slings and wrote postcards. We love this bar as it is on the little streets in the old town and you can sit and people watch as everyone goes by. We then went on to Hibiscus to eat. We really enjoyed this restaurant last time we visited but this time it left us disappointed as they tried to rip us off. We had seafood pizza for €9 each and as there was no wine mentioned on the menu we asked if they sold wine. They said yes so we asked for the local wine which is usually served in a carafe. We were presented with a bottle of wine which we presumed was local as we had also been served it in a bottle on occasion. When we got the bill we found the wine had been charged at €15[?]. We complained about the price of the wine and after some argument the waiter knocked off €5. I do not object to paying for good wine but felt we were being ripped off. We had asked for local wine and as we found out during our argument they did serve local wine in a carafe at the price were expecting to pay but we had not been given the option of this. He used the excuse that no one had complained before but we did point out to him they probably didn't like to make a fuss but it didn't make it right. The pizza was good but we wouldn't return there.

30/08/07
Today was our Delos/Mykonos trip. We had done this trip before on our previous visit but didn't have time to see everything in Delos as the site is so large. I think you need more than a couple of hours to see everything properly. My only complaint is that the entrance fee to the site is not included in the trip and you are not told this on booking the excursion. We did remember this from our previous trip though and you do have to join a long queue to get your ticket which takes time out of the short time you are there. It is extremely hot with no shade so you need lots of sun lotion and some head covering. A great place to visit though if you love history. We then arrived in Mykonos in time for lunch so we headed for our favourite restaurant in the little Venice area. The restaurant is called 'Little Venice'. It is very expensive but a lovely treat and great for sitting in whiling the time away. We had Mythos which was €4 each with Languinne mixed seafood which was delicious, €50 for 2. We had a quick look around the shops then back onto the Naxos Star for 5 pm and arrived back at 7 pm. We went to Puerto del Sol bar in Livadia for pre-dinner drinks. This is a fantastic bar which goes over onto the beach with antique furniture and hammocks hung around the trees and great music, very eastern and mystical. We then went to Katarina Restaurant at the end of our road. This is very cheap and full of Greek people, has a great menu and very friendly staff. It is one of the oldest restaurants in Parakia (1973).

31/08/07
Today we walked to Souvlia Beach, 40-45 minutes South from the bus station. Turn left at Bountaraki restaurant near steps and just before going up the hill, go to the end of the road and turn right. Carry on up this road until you see a sign for the beach. Go down the hill and you come to the Magaya restaurant situated on the beach. Great bar/restaurant with good atmosphere. No beds on beach but lovely relaxed feel to it. Late dinner at Cactus restaurant - Mexican and Thai food. We had fajitas which was well presented. Charged for bread again which we didn't eat! Nice banana crepes.

01/09/07
Beach day. In the evening we went to Alexandros Bar (restored windmill, South end of Parakia on hill), fantastic views over bay in the evening. On our way there we stopped off at Tres Jolie, a nice small friendly bar, as we noticed they were showing the ManU/Sunderland game. We did notice that on a Saturday night every bar now seems to have massive screens showing football (Greek) and they are all packed out with Greek people watching the games. Two years ago there was no football bars to be seen. The Greeks are now into football in a big way! After Alexandros we went to eat at Albatros restaurant near the port, opposite bus station. Mostly seafood, we had grilled mackerel but not a great deal of choice.

02/09/07
Beach day. Daffney garden restaurant, Market Street, Old Town. Lamb shank €16.50 each. I have to admit though the lamb was no better than the lamb shank in Wetherspoons for £6.50! Elegant restaurant, excellent service. We then went to cafe next to Cafe Distrato (can't remember the name) one has yellow seats and one has orange seats although it looks as though they are one and the same! Had Frappe with Baileys.

03/09/07
Caught bus to Lefkes to do Byzantine Walk. Arrived at Lefkes at 10:20 am and went for frappe at cafe in centre of old town before departing on walk. When getting off bus walk straight down main road and go down into centre of old town circa viewing terrace. Having done this walk last visit it was more familiar to us this time around. Arrived in Prodromos after 1 hour and went to local bar in centre of village for beer before departing for Piso Livado. We are always made to feel very welcome here by the local people who treat us as some kind of curiosity! Prodromos is a lovely scenic village which is worth walking through, great for photographs. Arrived at Piso Livado approximately 2:30 pm after calling into another village on way. We noticed a lot of new buildings had gone up along the way since our last visit which is a bit of a shame but I suppose its called progress. We had lunch at Stavros which is always busy and the service is very quick - almost too quick, all the food being delivered at the same time so that our main course was very tepid by the time we got round to eating it, very Greek style! We sunbathed on the beach for an hour to recover and sleep off the food. We then went to one of the seafront bars for a drink before returning home on the bus, this time via Noussa. In the evening we went to the ice cream parlour on the sea front followed by a drink at Cafe Distrato in the old town, they have an excellent drinks menu.

04/09/07
Another beach day. In the evening we went to Porphyra Restaurant as recommended on the website. We had the Mussels Saganaki as recommended after our starter of Tzatsiki with a carafe of wine. If you have the Mussels Saganaki you definitely need a starter as there wouldn't be enough to satisfy you in the one dish. We thoroughly enjoyed this restaurant though and were glad we had gone. We then went on to Aplo Bar, we could have done with a torch to read the drinks menu though, it was very dark. We found this to be the case in many of the bars we visited. As we do like to try different drinks and cocktails it was a shame we couldn't see to read the menus! We had to stick to the tried and tested.

05/09/07
This morning another visit to the Bank as we thought we had better do some shopping for presents etc. before we went home, so we enjoyed our trawl around all the shops and spent the afternoon on the beach which was enough as it was a very windy day. In the evening we went to Evinos bar for a glass of champagne before we ate at Argunauto Restaurant in the square behind the port. This was a very good, cheap restaurant.

06/09/07
This was our last day so we got up early and did some packing before our last day on the beach. In the evening we went to one of our favourite restaurants Il Sussuro de Pino and then to the Puesta del Sol bar for a last drink.

07/09/07
Up for our 8 am departure on the ferry to Mykonos. The ferry was very crowded as they had picked up from Naxos first so there was a lot of pushing and shoving to get a seat when we got on. The rest of the journey was quite uneventful apart from the usual long queues at Mykonos airport but it was a bit more orderly than our last visit. We arrived back home late afternoon with only the prospect of lots of washing and work on Monday.